A Hike to Phraya Nakhon Cave: The Second Time Around

We first hiked to Phraya Nakhon Cave back in 2016 as a training expedition for our Mount Kinabalu climb. As Bangkok is a low-lying, flat city with no natural hills, finding a good trekking spot can be a challenge. So, before our next trip with some serious hiking planned, we decided to return to this beautiful spot for a second time.

Our second visit felt different from the first. Back in 2016, we could start our hike before the ticket booth opened. Now, there’s a new sign stating that entry before 8:00 AM will result in a 1,000 baht fine, a rule confirmed by a nearby stall. By the time the ticket counter opened, we were only able to start our trek at 8:10 AM.

The Journey to the Cave

The round-trip 4 km hike took us about 3.5 hours in total. We took our time on the way up, with the ascent to the cave taking about 1 hour in total (30 minutes for each of the two legs of the trail).

We then spent 45 minutes relaxing at Laem Sala Beach and another 45 minutes inside the cave itself, taking photos. We had to pick up the pace on the way down to make our 12:00 PM hotel check-out, walking almost non-stop for 50 minutes.

As we did last time, we chose to hike the entire way instead of taking the boat, which is a convenient alternative but would have defeated the purpose of our training.

Located within Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, the Phraya Nakhon Cave is famous for its stunning main chamber where the roof has collapsed, allowing sunlight to stream in. A beautiful royal pavilion, the Phra Throne Hall Khuha Manor, sits majestically in the center of this chamber. While many photographers will tell you the best time to see the iconic light beam is from 10:00 AM to 11:30 AM in the dry season (November to February), I thought the lighting was still beautiful when we saw it at 10:20 AM in late August.

While we may have missed the ideal conditions for the perfect photo, we were rewarded with a more magical experience: two encounters with the beautiful Dusky Langurs. These spectacled leaf monkeys are a treat to see in their natural habitat and made the journey unforgettable.

Practical Tips for a Better Hike

Here’s a quick guide with all the essential information you need for your trip to Phraya Nakhon Cave:

• Entrance Fee: 200 baht for foreigners, 40 baht for Thai nationals. (Cash only)
• Operating Hours: The cave and trails are open from 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM. The boat service closes at 3:30 PM.
• Trail Breakdown:
  • First Leg: Haw Khao Thian to Laem Sala Beach (500 meters). This is a 30-minute hike over a rocky headland.
  • Second Leg: Laem Sala Beach to Phraya Nakhon Cave (430 meters). This is a steep trail that takes about 20-30 minutes. The return trail allows for 40 minutes, and you must leave the cave by 5:00 PM.
• Boat Trip: The boat from the entrance to Laem Sala Beach costs around 400 baht for a return trip or 200 baht one-way. For those who opt for the boat, there’s a thoughtful, dedicated foot-washing area on the beach to wash off the sand.
• Essential Gear: You can bring your own trekking poles or use the free wooden hiking sticks available at the entrance—we found that these were likely left by previous hikers as a community service. The hike can be challenging due to the heat, so starting as early as possible is a good idea. I even had to use my portable fan to find relief. While we didn’t have issues with mosquitoes, it’s wise to bring repellent.
• Dress Appropriately: We encountered some visitors in dresses and sandals, or even slippers. While it’s up to the individual, wearing proper shoes and clothing is the smartest move for this hike.
• Toilet Facilities: There are paid restrooms near the entrance at Haw Khao Thian (5 baht), but free facilities are available at Laem Sala Beach.
• Important Rules: Drones are not allowed in the area.

Where to Stay & Eat

We stayed at La Isla Pranburi, which was a convenient five-minute drive away. This was a rare, once-in-a-while treat for us to stay at a nicer hotel with a beach right in front. Their buffet breakfast starts at 7:00 AM, so we were the first ones in for a quick meal before our hike.

For our meals, we followed the advice of many locals to stop in Petchaburi when driving from Bangkok, as it’s known for having better restaurants than Hua Hin.

Day 1 Lunch: We stopped at Rim Thale Restaurant (ร้านอาหารริมทะเล) at Bang Tabun in Petchaburi. Our 700 baht meal included steamed pu bai (ปูใบ้ นึ่ง), a type of hairy rock crab we had never heard of before. Interestingly, the pu bai is usually consumed only for its claw, which can regenerate after being lost. A steamed seabass with lime and garlic and a curry dish rounded out our meal. While the food was palatable, what we liked most was the peaceful riverside location, a welcome change from the huge crowds we saw at other restaurants. They also provide boat service for whale watching and ash floating, with a contact number of 086 796 5506.

Day 1 Dinner: We revisited OX Seafood (ร้านอาหารโอเอ็กซ์ซีฟู้ด) at Pranburi Beach. My husband said we had been here before, and it looked like the restaurant had been renovated over the years. We had grilled scallops with butter and garlic (300 baht), grilled flathead lobster (กุ้งกระดานเผา, 400 baht for 1/2 kilo), grilled seabass (380 baht), and a vegetable dish. The total bill came to 1,270 baht. Dual-language Thai and English menu is available here.

Day 2 Lunch: Our final meal was at Chok Aree (โชคอารีย์), also at Pranburi Beach. This was an unintended seafood meal, where we ended up with another flathead lobster (กุ้งกระดาน, 400 baht for 1/2 kilo), “choo chee” mackerel curry (ฉู่ฉี่, 150 baht), and a vegetable dish. The total bill came to 740 baht.

We were lucky to have three consecutive seafood meals, and a big thanks to my husband for all the planning and hard work on our local trips! This trek is a rewarding challenge and a fantastic way to immerse yourself in Thailand’s natural beauty. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best part of a journey is the unexpected encounters along the way.