Is the Legend Still the Same? Our Return to Air Itam Assam Laksa
For as long as I can remember, the Air Itam Market Laksa stall has been our gold standard. It was my husband’s first introduction to the dish, and ever since, every other bowl has lived in its shadow (with the sole exception of my eldest sister’s home-cooked version!).
Our relationship with this stall has been a bit of a roller coaster. Years ago, we were heartbroken to hear it had shuttered—rumors swirled that the owner was avoiding creditors. It opened, then closed, then opened again. When Google Maps marked it as “Open” during our trip in December 2025, we knew we had to make a pilgrimage before our flight back to Bangkok. After an 11-month hiatus, this Penang icon officially returned in November 2024.
The Mystery of the Missing Uncle
Started in 1955 by Lee Lay Hua and famously immortalized by the late Anthony Bourdain, this stall has been a Jalan Pasar icon for nearly 70 years. For decades, the face of the stall was the son, Ang Kak Seong. But during our visit at 11:30 AM, he was nowhere to be seen.
During our inDrive ride to the airport later that day, a local Penangite shared a sobering rumor: the “Uncle” has passed away, and the stall is now run by his sister and other family members. While we couldn’t find an official obituary—unlike the high-profile news surrounding the “Three Sisters Curry Noodle” owners—the shift in management was palpable.
The Verdict: Has the Flavor Faded?
Many recent online reviews claim the broth has become “diluted” or “watery” under the new guard. We went in with an open mind, having just sampled bowls at Fu-Yang, My Own Cafe, Penang Road Famous Laksa, and Duan.
The verdict? Air Itam is still our champion.
The taste remains a masterclass in balance. My husband even dug up photos from our visits years ago to compare—the broth’s rich, dark texture and deep umami color are identical. We watched closely: the signature “two-broth swipe” technique (pouring hot broth over the noodles and back into the pot multiple times to infuse every strand) is still very much alive. At RM 7 per bowl, it remains a world-class steal.
🚌 How to Get There (The Budget Traveler’s Route)
You don’t need a car to reach the foothills of Kek Lok Si. We took the bus from Komtar, and it was a breezy 30-minute ride to Jalan Paya Terubung:
- Bus No. 201: (Via Chulia Street) – RM 2 per person (cash only for foreigners).
- Alternative Routes: Bus 203 (Farlim-Komtar), 204 (Penang Hill), or 502 (Balik Pulau).
- The Return Trip: To head back to Georgetown, wait at the bus stop opposite Tian Ran Chinese Physician on Jalan Balik Pulau.
📅 Know Before You Go (2026 Updates)
The stall currently operates on a very restricted schedule. Do not show up on a weekday!
- Opening Hours: Saturday & Sunday ONLY | 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM.
- January 2026 Closures: The stall will be CLOSED on Jan 17–18 and Jan 24–25.
- Pro Tip: They typically close one full weekend a month. Always check their Official Facebook Page before making the trek to avoid disappointment!
