The Vegetarian Society in Bangkok – A Hidden Gem (Still?)

Sometimes, the best discoveries come from unexpected sources. For us, the Vegetarian Society in Chatuchak (สาขาชมรมมังสวิรัติจตุจักร) popped up on our radar through an Instagram post by another blogger. It was an instant “add to wishlist,” and now it’s time to pay it forward by sharing this incredible find with you all!

This particular spot has a funny way of circulating. After seeing the Instagram post, I immediately shared it with my niece, a dedicated vegetarian, which prompted her to visit. Her enthusiasm then led to separate visits from her dad and her mom. When I mentioned this “vegetarian market in Chatuchak” to my husband, he surprisingly recalled that he had told me about its Bangkapi branch, frequented by his parents, ages ago, before even knowing about the Chatuchak location!

More Than Just a Market: The Santi Asoke Connection

This bustling vegetarian hub is more than just a collection of food stalls; it’s operated by the Santi Asoke Buddhist Organization, deeply rooted in principles of simplicity, self-sufficiency, and ethical living, which includes strict vegetarianism. The market and its associated restaurant are largely under the helm of Chamlong Srimuang, a highly prominent and often controversial figure in Thailand. Chamlong is not only a former Governor of Bangkok and a political activist but also a devout follower and leader within the Santi Asoke Buddhist sect. He is so strongly associated with the restaurant that many simply refer to it as “Chamlong’s Asoke Vegetarian Restaurant.”

For those interested in the deeper history and the philosophy behind Santi Asoke and Chamlong Srimuang’s influence, you can delve into this insightful article: https://www.khaosodenglish.com/life/arts/2018/07/24/eat-sacred-veggies-behind-chatuchak-market/. It sheds light on Santi Asoke’s unique practices, including strict vegetarianism, consuming only one meal a day, and a focus on anti-consumerism, often selling goods below market value to earn merit.

Navigating the Culinary Delights

Upon entering, you’ll find the food stalls operate on a convenient coupon system. You buy coupons upfront, and then use these at the various stalls. Any remaining coupons can be returned for a refund. We noticed that while smaller denominations (10 and 20 baht) are common, arriving closer to closing time might mean receiving larger denominations, like 50 baht coupons, presumably to simplify change for vendors.

And there are plenty of stalls! Each visit reveals new delights, but our absolute favorite has consistently been their Khao Soi (35 baht) – a rich, fragrant northern Thai curry noodle soup that has become a repeat order every single time. Beyond that, we’ve sampled a wide array of dishes, all offering incredible value:

• “Chicken” Rice (Khao Man Gai Jay)
• “Pork Leg” Rice (Khao Kha Mu Jay) (35 baht)
• “Roast Pork” (Moo Daeng Jay)
• Fried Radish Cake (Chai Tao Kuay) (25 baht)
• Ba-jang (Glutinous Rice Dumpling)
• Satay
• Miang Kham (Betel Leaf Wraps) (40 baht)

The prices are incredibly wallet-friendly, with most dishes averaging a mere 20-35 baht. For three people, we typically spent around 200 baht for a delightful and affordable feast! Do note that arriving later in the day, like our 12:30 PM weekday visit, might mean some popular dishes, such as the “chicken” rice, are already sold out.

One thoughtful touch: if a dish usually includes onion as a topping, the staff will always ask if you want it, ensuring a fully customized and truly vegetarian experience.

A Communal and Self-Sufficient Vibe

Dining at Chamlong’s is a communal experience. The large space features long tables, encouraging a shared, relaxed atmosphere. Be prepared for a self-service approach: you’ll need to collect your own utensils, clear your table, and even give it a quick wipe down after you’re done. This aligns perfectly with the Santi Asoke principles of self-reliance and community effort.

While it’s often mentioned as a “gem hidden to most foreigners,” we’ve definitely spotted a fair number of international visitors during our trips, suggesting that this delicious secret is perhaps, happily, not so secret anymore! Beyond the food stalls, there’s also a fantastic shop where we love to pick up items like Thai snacks, tempeh crisps, and rice. It carries a surprisingly wide range of products, even plant seeds and fertilizer, reflecting the organization’s focus on sustainable living.

Plan Your Visit

• Address: 580-592 Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900
• Operating Hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 6:00 AM – 2:00 PM (Closed on Mondays)
• Nearest MRT: MRT Kamphaeng Phet, Exit No. 1.
  • It’s a short 5-minute walk from MRT Kamphaeng Phet.
  • Directions from MRT Kamphaeng Phet Exit 1: Turn right, then make a U-turn and walk towards the Best Western Hotel. You’ll pass a bridge on your left (Kamphaeng Road) where some homeless people shelter, even during the daytime. The walk to Chamlong’s involves passing a local road. From our experience, the area feels safe, even when visiting alone on a weekday.
• Directions for Ride-Hailing Apps: Search for “Chamlong’s” or note that it’s conveniently located directly behind the Best Western Hotel Chatuchak.
• Parking: There’s parking available, with a notice suggesting a 1.5-hour limit, but it doesn’t seem to be strictly enforced.

Chamlong’s is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that offers a taste of delicious, affordable, and ethically prepared vegetarian Thai food, all within a vibrant, community-driven setting. Don’t miss it on your next trip to Bangkok!